The City of Windhoek - Capital of Namibia

Sheltered as it is between the Eros and Auas mountains, 1646 metres above sea level, wherever you look there are magnificent, unspoilt panoramas and in every direction the lure of distant horizons. Few of the world's capitals demonstrate their civic pride so conspicuously. This cosmopolitan metropolis is free from litter, pollution, traffic jams and graffiti. It is so immaculate that 'swept-clean' hardly does justice to its sparkling streets and sidewalks lined with dazzling flowerbeds. (Reference at the bottom of the page)

The city has a population of about 250 000 and owes its existence to a combination of two factors. Firstly, the springs that water two ridges near the modern city centre attracted settlers, because availability of water is always a key factor in semi-arid conditions. Secondly, the fact that Windhoek has a geographically central position has made it a centre of power since at least the 1840s. Nevertheless, although there are numerous written and oral records, there is controversy about how old Windhoek actually is in terms of continuous human settlement. One school of thought holds that Windhoek was founded in 1890 when Major Curt von Francois made it the seat of German administration and began to build the fort that is now known as the Alte Feste. Testifying to this point of view, Von Francois is honoured in a statue that stands prominently in front of the Municipal building in Independence Avenue. Another school of thought denies this claim, pointing out that missionary records show that Jonker Afrikaner, the influential Nama Oorlam leader, had made Windhoek his seat of power by at least the 1840s. For instance, in 1844 Emma Sarah Hahn, wife of missionary Hugo Hahn, wrote that at Windhoek, Jonker Afrikaner had ‘a large stone building, which it is supposed he built as a kind of fortress, as a church or chapel, and for a long time previously to the arrival of a missionary, teaching the children and instructing the people…’ Twenty years later, in 1864, she described an attack on Windhoek by a trader, Frederick Green, and Herero fighters, writing that ‘They took a large booty in ammunition, clothing and cattle large and small – they burnt 21 wagons …’ In short, there is evidence that Windhoek was a place of importance from the early 1840s to at least the mid-1870s, when power shifted out of the hands of the Afrikaner clan. However, while acknowledging these facts, those who support the position that Windhoek was founded in 1890 say that the site was vacant and deserted when Von Francois established his settlement. Thus, they say, he is truly the founder of modern Windhoek. It is an issue that is unlikely to be settled soon, especially as it resonates with issues of ‘indigenous’ versus ‘colonial’.

The very name of the city is the subject of controversy. The Namas called it Ai-gams, ‘water of fire’, and the Hereros called it Otjimuise, ‘place of steam’, both names referring to the hot springs. Early Methodist missionaries called it Concordia, and the German missionaries called it both Barmen and Elberfeld. Then, some time during the late 1860s, the name ‘Windhoek’ suddenly came into use. Some people say that it refers to the Winterhoek Mountains in the Cape, where Jonker Afrikaner was born. However, this is unsubstantiated and the fact remains that no one really knows how or why Windhoek got its name.

Whatever the disputes, three things are certain: (1) Windhoek was the Oorlam Afrikaner’s seat of power for a considerable period; (2) It was the German colonial administrative centre; (3) Likewise, it was the South African colonial capital. At independence in March 1990, it was inevitable that Windhoek would become the capital of the new country, Namibia – a name that itself suddenly and without precedent came to prominence during the 1960s…

At an altitude of about 1600 metres, Windhoek is comparatively high, and unwary visitors who come from lower altitudes often complain of tiredness and lassitude for a few days after arriving. The city occupies two valleys. The main valley is backed by the Auas Mountains to the south, and opens up northwards. The smaller valley, known as Klein Windhoek, is separated from the city centre by a ridge and is the site of the original ‘Ai-gams’, or place of hot springs. Visitors might be interested to know that the road from Windhoek International Airport first enters the Klein Windhoek valley and then passes over the ridge to the city centre.

The lay-out of Windhoek still reflects the design that was imposed by the South African administration to enforce apartheid. Under this racially discriminatory ideology, the suburbs to the south and east of the city centre, still the most affluent, were for white residents only. To the west of the centre is Khomasdal, which was for ‘coloured’ people. Further out, to the south-west, is Katutura, which was for black residents only. In fact, today it is a historical curiosity to note that houses in the older parts of Katutura are grouped and designated according to ethnic groups, such as ‘Herero’ and ‘Nama’, which reflects the apartheid obsession with classifying people according to ascribed ‘ethnicity’. However, as apartheid and colonialism fade into history, these old residential divisions are beginning to blur in the face of official policy, which promotes racial integration, as well as economic factors and population mobility.

 

Being a small city, Windhoek does not have an unbroken program of theatre and shows. Visitors should enquire locally and/or consult the ‘Weekender’ supplement in the Friday edition of The Namibian newspaper, which provides a comprehensive guide to entertainment in Windhoek as well as in other major towns in Namibia. The cinemas in the complex in Maerua Mall generally show Hollywood blockbuster, ‘romance’, or ‘action’ movies. Art lovers should enjoy Windhoek, because in addition to the National Art Gallery, which is just off the city centre next to the National Theatre, the work of local artists can be viewed in a number of private galleries, such a Kendezia Gallery and the Omba Gallery at the Craft Centre, as well as in frequent exhibitions. The Muafangeyo Art School, named after Namibia’s most celebrated artist, is also worth a visit, as is Penduka (meaning 'Wake Up'), which is a training centre for women and produces interesting and original products (see photograph below) such as needlework, baskets, carvings, and fabrics. It also has a simple restaurant and walking trails. Penduka is at Goreagab Dam, about 10 kms from the city centre. The Craft Centre, already mentioned, is a good place to view local weaving, batik, embroidery, and wood carving productions, while craft vendors display their wares opposite the Zoo Park and in Post Street Mall. History enthusiasts will enjoy the National Museum and the National Archives, with its evocative display of historic photographs, as well as the TransNamib Railway Museum, which is located on the first floor of the Windhoek railway station, itself an historic building. The National Botanic Garden, in Orban Street on the ridge to the east of the city centre, is also worth a visit. A favourite bird-watching, dog-walking, fishing, and general recreational spot is Avis Dam, which is located on the outskirts of the suburb of that name. Thanks to the conservation efforts of a local public interest group, the dam now has about thirty pelicans and a pair of fish eagles, as well as other water birds such as ducks and cormorants.

The following are day drives from Windhoek:

1. Situated in the Khomas Hochland hills to the west of Windhoek, Daan Viljoen game reserve is about 20 kms from the city centre on a good tarred road. There are plenty of antelopes, smaller animals, and about 200 species of birds, but no predators, so it is quite safe to follow the walking trails. One trail is 3 kms in length, from the park office to the dam, while a 9 km trail provides fine views of Windhoek in the valley below. There is also an overnight trail as well as bungalows and a restaurant.

 

2. Gross Barmen hot springs resort is about 100 kms from Windhoek on a good tarred road via Okahandja. With indoor and outdoor hot baths, it is a good place to relax after a long trip. There are bungalows, camping sites, a restaurant, and short walking trails as well as a large pool – perhaps a small lake is more descriptive - with luxuriant reed growth that attracts the birds.

3. Rehoboth, 90 kms south of Windhoek on the main tarred road, is home to the Baster people, who are proud of their distinctive origin and history. Although the town is non-descript, one can visit the museum to learn more about Baster heritage and relax in the large hot bath at Reho Spa. North of the town is Oanob Dam, which has accommodation and a water sports complex.

4. Arnhem Caves are about 180 kms drive from Windhoek, first on the main tarred road to the east and then southwards on a gravel road. The caves, which are impressive in size and variations, are home to five different species of bats. The tour of the caves makes one VERY dirty – showers are available, and definitely necessary - so wear old clothes. There are bungalows and camping facilities for an overnight stay in the pleasant farm environment.

5. Von Bach Dam, about 80 kms from Windhoek near Okahandja, is Windhoek's main source of water. Water sports are allowed, but no swimming.

Finally, it should be mentioned that one of the most characteristic sights of Windhoek is Herero women in their unique headgear and full, wide, ‘Victorian’-like dresses. Striking as their attire is, these women are not putting on a show for the tourists; this is their normal, everyday wear.

Click here for more information about things to do and see in and around Windhoek, including Katutura Face to Face Tours. Also click here for a Walking Tour of Windhoek.

Because of its situation and the fact that it is the site of the country’s major airport, many visitors begin and end their Namibian holiday in Windhoek.